Gold
This most famous of
precious metals has been highly sought after and valued
throughout human history not only because of its rarity
and beauty, but also because of its usefullness and that
it is often found highly pure in content.
Gold is very malleable (easy
to work with) and durable because it does not corrode or
tarnish. Its malleability can be realised if we think of
how just one ounce od gold can be beaten into a flat
sheet of gold leaf measuring 17 square metres.
As for its durability, we only have to consider all the
historical relics such as ancient Egyptian artefacts
which have survived intact for thousands of years.
Considering this then, one begins to comprehend just how
ancient and historically important the craft of
goldsmithing is.
Pure gold is very soft
and therefore liable to damage. For this reason, most
gold jewellery is made of gold alloys. The content of
gold alloys consists of gold and other metals. The gold
content of jewellery is measured in carats (expressed
fractionally as 24ths). For example, 24 carat jewellery
is pure gold, while 9 carat gold has a gold content of
9/24ths, or just over one third.
What is gold?
With other numbers of metals or
alloys such as copper or iron pyrite, copying gold color
is easy. They will look just as the gold as the real 14k
gold. So why pick 14k gold? The answer is easy. Gold
does not change in color, rust or corrode or fade. Gold
survives time. Also gold can be shaped to any size or
shapes.
However with gold’s flexibility has a drawback. Due to
its flexible nature, gold’s strength in minerals or
harness is near the bottom of the chart. Because of
these weaknesses, gold is mixed with one or more
additional metals to make it strong. We call this alloy;
they are usually copper, silver, nickel. These alloys
not only strengthen the gold, but determine the color of
the gold. For example, yellow gold will contain copper,
and white gold will have nickel, zinc and copper is
mixed in. With these concepts, gold can come in many
color such as pink gold or also know as rose gold, or
purple gold etc.
What does karat means in
14k?
In mineral community, precious
metals measured in ounces. But this ounce system is not
the system of 16 ounces to a pound which we are familiar
with. Gold is instead measure what ancient troy standard.
This standard is also used in pharmacists and medical
profession today. Here is an example of weight system.
|
1 troy ounce |
= 480 grains
= 20 pennyweights
= 1.097 avoirdupois ounces
= 31.103 grams
|
|
1 troy pound |
= 12 troy ounces
= 5760 grains
= 240 pennyweights
= 13.164 avoirdupois ounces
= 0.82275 avoirdupois pounds
= 373.236 grams
|
Karat in most in English speaking
countries spells in “carat” but in U.S. carat is used to
measure gem stone’s weight such as 1 carat diamond. The
word carat is from ancient time when it was used from
carob plant which was used to measure weight of
gemstones. Carob plant’s seed was used for this process.
One carob seed weighted about 200 milligrams.
Now going back to gold, purity of
gold is measure from 1 to 24. 24 karat (24K) is purest
form of the metal. So when you hear 18k gold, it means
18/24 karat which is 75% of gold and 25% alloy. More
alloy, or lower karat in gold, gold becomes much more
strong.
Gold Marks
|
American Marking
(karatage) |
Pure Gold content
(Fineness in percent) |
European Marking |
|
24 K |
100 |
1,000 |
|
22 K |
91.6 |
916 |
|
20 K |
83 |
833 |
|
19 K (used in Portugal) |
79.2 |
792 |
|
18 K |
75.0 |
750 |
|
15 K (seen in antiques) |
62.5 |
750 |
|
14 K |
58.3 |
585 |
|
12 K |
50.0 |
500 |
|
10 K |
41.7 |
417 |
|
9 K |
37.5 |
375 |
Minimum Gold Content
To be called gold, there are
minimum gold content. It varies by where you are, but in
United States, item must be at least 10 K and in England
and Canada 9 K and in Italy and France 18 K
Many Colors of Gold
|
Color |
Composition |
|
Yellow Gold |
Gold, Copper, Silver |
|
White Gold |
Gold, Nickel**, Zinc,
Silver, Palladium |
|
Green Gold |
Gold, Silver, Copper,
Zinc |
|
Pink (Red) Gold |
Gold, Copper |
** Some people are allergic to
nickel and should not whear white gold which contains
Nickel. Some manufacturers use Palladium instead of
Nickel. White gold which contains Palladium will be more
expensive than yellow gold or white gold but it will be
less expensive than Platinum.
What causes skin
discoloration with some gold jewelry?
Pure gold does not change in color
or tarnish and it won’t discolor the skin. But when
alloy is used to mix with gold, the gold can change and
oxidize. Also human’s fat or acids in perspiration can
start this change in gold. It usually gets worse in warm
and damp areas where lots of salt is in the air.
Sometimes, woman’s makeup can start the problem.
How to solve
discoloration in gold?
1. Make a habit of removing jewelry often and cleaning
the skin and jewelry.
2. Use soft cloth to wipe
and clean jewelry to remove tarnish.
3. Try to switch to higher
gold content jewelry. When you have discoloration gold
problem in 14k gold, try to switch it to 18k gold.
What is gold coatings?
Jewelry or item less than solid
14k is considered as costume jewelry. Anything less than
10k is definitely is costume jewelry. Also you may run
into term such as gold plated or vermeil jewelry.
Vermeil jewelry comes into two part. When it’s vintage
or antique jewelry and if its from abroad, vermeil means
gold coated on bronze, brass, copper or other cheaper
material.
Here is the simple figure for you
to understand difference between types of gold.

When gold filled is concerned, it
means 1/20th of the total weight of the piece or more.
So in a sense, gold filled is better than gold plated
jewelry. Gold plated jewelry is consisted of 100
millionth of an inch is chemically electronically plated.
If your jewelry is “gold-flashed” or “gold-washed” means
it’s plating is thinner than 7 millionths of an inch.
Silver
Though not as highly valued as gold, this soft and
lustrous white metal has a proud history dating back
thousands of years. Ornamental and decorative siverware
has been unearthed in royal tombs dating back to 4000 BC.
Although much harder than
gold, silver can be easily worked and beaten into silver
leaf for decorative use. And just like gold it is long
lasting and hard-wearing.
Silver has been used in
jewellery and coinage throughout the ages in the form of
a silver alloy. The fineness of silver items is measured
as a proportion of the silver content. For instance,
Sterling silver has a fineness of 925, which is to say
that the silver content amounts to 92.5% of the piece.
The other metal content of silver alloys used in
jewellery is usually copper. Most silver jewellery has a
fineness rating of 800, so there is 80% silver content
and 20% copper in most silver jewellery.
High silver content is
also evident in white gold. The gold content of white
gold usually amounts to just over half, with silver
amounting to one quarter of the content.
Silver
Anything other than gold such
as silver and platinum are also alternatives to gold. Silver also has
many qualities as gold. Such as lovely color and great flexibility, like
gold silver have problems. Pure silver is too soft like pure gold, and
to prevent that copper is added to add strength.
When you hear “sterling
silver”, sterling is one of the most familiar silver alloys. Sterling
consists of 925 parts pure silver and 75 parts copper. Term karat does
not apply to silver. Silver is simple in a sense that silver is either
sterling or not. Due to this, in silver, Federal Trade Commission
prohibits the term use “sterling” or “coin silver” in reference to a
plated article. Because when they say “silver plated” the plating is
pure silver not like other plating metal.
Problem of silver
One major draw back of silver
jewelry is that it is prong to tarnish. Silver will almost turn
deepening to brown and to black. This process is quicken by today’s
inner city where there is lots of air pollutions. Silver is also
sensitive to alkali compounds. Which means things like sea air can
tarnish the silver.
Solution
Best solution for tarnished
silver is to buy silver cleaning chemical. And use soft cloth and apply
these chemicals to clean your jewelry. Also toothpaste does a job too.
Platinum
Although artefacts containing platinum have been found
dating back to the times of the ancient Egyptians, it is
thought that they were unaware of this precious metal
being present in the mainly gold pieces it has been
found in. The first discoveries which identify Platinum
as a distinct precious metal occurred in 16th century
Columbia. Indeed, the name Platinum dates from this
time, when Spanish invaders noted its resemblance to
silver ; the word platinum coming from the Spanish, 'platina
del Pinta'.
The demand for platinum
in jewellery has greatly increased in recent times, with
particularly high demand in Japan.
Most of the world's
platinum comes from the Transvaal area of South Africa
and Russia.
Bronze
TThe history of mankind's use of bronze stratches way
back to 3000 BC. Bronze is often an alloy made up of the
metals copper and tin, although in recent times bronze
has also been made using aluminium, manganese or zinc
instead of tin.
Being very hard and
durable yet easy to cast, bronze has been widely used
throughout history for coinage, tools and weaponry. Iron
hjas taken the place of bronze in many uses over the
centuries because it is more widely available, reather
than it being significantly better or more suited to its
uses.
Assaying
The content and value of precious metals is determined
by processes of chemical analysis called assaying. The
history and formulation of the processes involved is
rooted in the work of ancient alchemists and goldsmiths
who would subject base metals to heat.
Assaying by fire is still
the most economical methos of assaying precious metals,
even more so than modern methods such as spectrographic
analysis because of the amounts of the metals needed to
carry out the tests.
The fire assaying method
consists of 6 steps :
-
Sampling. A
representative sample is taken.
-
Fusion. The sample is
then melted along with flexes and other agents to
collect elements of precious metals in droplets of
lead. These are then cooled to produce a 'lead
button'.
-
Coppelation. The 'lead
button' is then melted and the impurities are
oxidised. Beads of precious metals then form.
-
Weighing. Beads of
gold and silver are then weighed to determine their
gold and silver content. Platinum is present in
quantities to small to weigh however.
-
Parting. Each bead is
then trated to dissolve out the silver content.
-
Weighing. Finally,
the remianing gold content is weighed andthis
mesurement is subtracted from the gold-silver bead
weight previously measured. This calculation then
gives us the weight of the silver content.
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